Denpasar
Denpasar is a "village-city" with an aristocratic past. Born from the ashes of the defeated Pemecutan court following the Puputan massacre of 1906, Denpasar became a sleepy administrative outpost during Dutch times. Since independence, and especially after it was made the capital of Bali in 1958, it has been transformed into a bustling city of some 350,000 souls that provides administrative, commercial and educational services not only to booming Bali, but to much of eastern Indonesia as well. Denpasar is the most dynamic city east of Surabaya, and arguably the richest in the country - there are more vehicles per capita here than in Jakarta.New city, old villages
Originally a market town - its name literally means "east of the market" - Denpasar has far outgrown its former boundaries, once defined by the Pemecutan, Jero Kuta and Satriya palaces and the brahmanic houses Tegal, Tampak gangsul and Gemeh. Spurred in all directions by population pressures motorized transport, urban growth is little enveloping the neighboring villages obliterating the surrounding rice fields, leaving a new urban landscape in its wake housing estates in the midst of rice fields in the middle of the city.
To the northeast, urbanization spills. Across the Ayung River into the village Batubulan, famous for its barong dance where the conservatory of dance has recently been relocated. To the south, it reaches Sanur and even to Kuta, while the Bukit it is now subjected to a frenzy of land speculation. To the northwest, it sprawls as far Kapal, whose beautiful temple now has to seen above the din and dust of suburban traffic.
This unchecked growth has swallowed many old villages of the plain, yet in many ways they remain as they were - their arc architecture focused around open courtyard they have intact their intricate temples collective banjars. The power structure its although adapting to new urban tasks and occupations, has also not changed much. Local satriyas, be they hotel managers or civil servants, remain princes - they still have control of land and territorial temples and M mobilize their "subjects" for ceremonies
Local Brahmans are even more powerful continuing to provide ritual services for their followers and occupying some of the best positions in the new Bali. Thus Denpasar is a showcase of Balinese social resiliency - still "Bali" and worth a visit for its gates, its shrines and its royal mansions.
But Denpasar is nevertheless a modern city. Shops, roads and markets have conquered the wet rice field areas allowed to be leased and sold by village communities. Here, urbanization has taken on the same features found elsewhere in Indonesia - rows of gaudily-painted shops in the business districts; pretty villas along the "protocol" streets; narrow alleys, small compounds and tiny houses in the residential areas.
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